Multi-Pitch Efficiency Seminar a Success!

Mick Pearson and his crew from Kaf Adventures led a seminar for WAC members on efficiently climbing multi-pitch.  It took place at Mt. Erie on Saturday, July 8th.  It was a breautiful day and I believed everyone found helpful takeways.  If you’d like to see more events like this let someone know!

Here’s an overview of what was covered:

 

Multi-pitch anchoring
  • Anticipating forces, weighing the climber down, protecting the anchor
  • Point equalized, self equalized, the quad
Belay device choices
  • Grabbing vs. easy to pull (micro jewel, auto-blocking, assisted brake)
Lowering
  • Load Strand Direct
Quick transition from climbing to rappelling (single Rope)
  • Introduced the concept that if you have an end free, you should always be doing something
Parallel Rope Technique
  • Treat the system as 1 rope clipping all protection along the way. Be careful which strand is your belay, use different color ropes.
Stance Management
  • Stack whenever possible
    Hanging belays – always re-flake after the seconds come up to the belay
    Kiwi Coil’s
End Roping
  • Used in terrain easy enough that both climbers can move with ease
  • Transition to rappel uses the backside of the seconds clove hitch
Alpine rope coil with Nail knot finish

Reference: The Guide Manual – Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppollino

Hey everybody!