Multi-Pitch Efficiency Seminar a Success!
Mick Pearson and his crew from Kaf Adventures led a seminar for WAC members on efficiently climbing multi-pitch. It took place at Mt. Erie on Saturday, July 8th. It was a breautiful day and I believed everyone found helpful takeways. If you’d like to see more events like this let someone know!
Here’s an overview of what was covered:
- Anticipating forces, weighing the climber down, protecting the anchor
- Point equalized, self equalized, the quad
Belay device choices
- Grabbing vs. easy to pull (micro jewel, auto-blocking, assisted brake)
- Load Strand Direct
Quick transition from climbing to rappelling (single Rope)
- Introduced the concept that if you have an end free, you should always be doing something
Parallel Rope Technique
- Treat the system as 1 rope clipping all protection along the way. Be careful which strand is your belay, use different color ropes.
- Stack whenever possible
Hanging belays – always re-flake after the seconds come up to the belay
- Used in terrain easy enough that both climbers can move with ease
- Transition to rappel uses the backside of the seconds clove hitch
Alpine rope coil with Nail knot finish
Reference: The Guide Manual – Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppollino